Sports Tiara
LOL http://rarerborealis.com/wordpressblog/2011/01/14/free-pattern-friday-crowning-glory/
I don't know what's wronger, though. The item itself, or the fact that I really want to make one now...
I don't know what's wronger, though. The item itself, or the fact that I really want to make one now...
What to line a crocheted purse with?
Plastic canvas. It retains its shape when washed, and can be cut to whatever shape/size you need. Just insert it between the bag and the lining.
Texting Gloves
ratdog posted a cute idea I wanted to save/share:
For all of you with Teenagers on your list this Christmas, I saw on a retail website a pair of fingerless gloves that were referred to as:
Texting Gloves
Makes it sound up to date and cool doesn't it?
Lining Amigurumi: No More Stuffing showing through
I want to re-post a tip here that I read because I know I've needed this tip before, so you might too, plus I don't want to lose it!
totalrealtor said:
totalrealtor said:
Well my mother (god rest her soul) was right when she used to say "don't throw away those "stockings" with runs." I just finished a darling 15 inch bear in dark, dark brown chenille yarn and when I started to stuff him I thought-hmmmm what if he were lined first? So, I took a pair of old, very dark tights I had(clean of course), cut the legs off and then using the foot, slipped it into his head, stuffed inside the tight then just tucked in the ends before closing the head. Voila! no white stuffing showing through!!! For the body, arms and legs I used various pieces of the "legs" from the tights and it worked like a dream!
So, the thing I hate most is now solved WOO HOO!!! I figure I can pick up a pair or two as needed at the dollar store and my bears will never show stuffing again.
Maybe this is not a new idea but it is new to me and I just wanted to share.
Tampa Doll shares in reply that:
You can use all colors, for the different color bears or whatever you make. I have used green and yellow and such.
I love using the stockings so that the stuffing doesn't show.
I got a head.
No, really. I got a head today. You know, for taking pics of hats and necklaces, and stuff. It is styrofoam. It came from Hobby Lobby.
Hemstitching
Hemstitching
Need a great quick and personalized gift for an expectant mom or a new baby? Edge a blanket. You can buy pre-pierced flannel squares for you to stitch into.
You can edge more than just baby items this way too, such as pillow cases, handkerchiefs, placemats, etc.
Here's a really great how-to:
http://www.mormonchic.com/crafty/crochet-edges.asp
This one shows you how to make a great foundation edge, the blanket stitch, to add your edgings to, if you want to edge a piece that's crocheted instead.
http://crochet.about.com/library/weekly/aa120702.htm
If you want to add your own holes, here are some handy tips from Crochetville members!
Just put your fabric on top of top of some cardboard, get out your ruler and a pen to mark the dots with, then puncture the fabric with a steel hook or a knitting needle. :D
Edgery-Doo kits include a tool to pierce your own holes. It is unlike purchased pre-pierced (truly hemstitched) items in that there is no thread to hold the holes open, but it has become rather popular lately, so perhaps it is still easy to use. Maybe I'll have to give it a try sometime.
Then for more ideas on edging styles you can put around that, here are some handy links.
http://www.crochetpatterncentral.com/directory/edgings.php
http://home.inreach.com/marthac/edging.html
Now, here are some sources on where to order pre-pierced products (Ready-to-Crochet Hemstitching):
http://www.hemstitcher.com - best variety, and you can get single-ply blankets here, unlike at most places.
http://www.edgerydoo.com
http://www.fabric-mill.com/view_category.asp?cat=50
http://www.hemstitchingetc.com/hemstitching-kits/foundit.asp
http://www.blanketsandmoreonline.com
If you're really serious about it, you can even buy the machine yourself! Hemstitching machines create a line of stitched perforations.
http://www.hemstitchers.com
http://www.heirloomhemstitching.com/machine.htm
You may find used listings online for considerably cheaper, especially vintage machines.
Here's even a different kind of machine that does the crocheted edge for you.
http://www.cthompson.org.uk/blanketstitchers/
Need a great quick and personalized gift for an expectant mom or a new baby? Edge a blanket. You can buy pre-pierced flannel squares for you to stitch into.
You can edge more than just baby items this way too, such as pillow cases, handkerchiefs, placemats, etc.
Here's a really great how-to:
http://www.mormonchic.com/crafty/crochet-edges.asp
This one shows you how to make a great foundation edge, the blanket stitch, to add your edgings to, if you want to edge a piece that's crocheted instead.
http://crochet.about.com/library/weekly/aa120702.htm
If you want to add your own holes, here are some handy tips from Crochetville members!
Just put your fabric on top of top of some cardboard, get out your ruler and a pen to mark the dots with, then puncture the fabric with a steel hook or a knitting needle. :D
Edgery-Doo kits include a tool to pierce your own holes. It is unlike purchased pre-pierced (truly hemstitched) items in that there is no thread to hold the holes open, but it has become rather popular lately, so perhaps it is still easy to use. Maybe I'll have to give it a try sometime.
Then for more ideas on edging styles you can put around that, here are some handy links.
http://www.crochetpatterncentral.com/directory/edgings.php
http://home.inreach.com/marthac/edging.html
Now, here are some sources on where to order pre-pierced products (Ready-to-Crochet Hemstitching):
http://www.hemstitcher.com - best variety, and you can get single-ply blankets here, unlike at most places.
http://www.edgerydoo.com
http://www.fabric-mill.com/view_category.asp?cat=50
http://www.hemstitchingetc.com/hemstitching-kits/foundit.asp
http://www.blanketsandmoreonline.com
If you're really serious about it, you can even buy the machine yourself! Hemstitching machines create a line of stitched perforations.
http://www.hemstitchers.com
http://www.heirloomhemstitching.com/machine.htm
You may find used listings online for considerably cheaper, especially vintage machines.
Here's even a different kind of machine that does the crocheted edge for you.
http://www.cthompson.org.uk/blanketstitchers/
How To Edge Fleece
Take a piece of fleece, some crochet thread, and a steel hook.
Using your hook, pierce a hole through the fleece. Make the hole about a half a centimeter down, and about the same from your right edge of the fabric.
Pull the thread through
To use worsted weight yarn, you might wish to pre-pierce your holes around the fleece edge with an ice pick, scissors, etc. Then you can use regular yarn and an appropriately sized hook.
You can buy some plain fleece at these places:
http://www.fleecelady.com
http://www.twinfabrics.com
http://www.picotextiles.com
http://www.syfabrics.com
http://www.totallyfleeceinc.com
Using your hook, pierce a hole through the fleece. Make the hole about a half a centimeter down, and about the same from your right edge of the fabric.
Pull the thread through
To use worsted weight yarn, you might wish to pre-pierce your holes around the fleece edge with an ice pick, scissors, etc. Then you can use regular yarn and an appropriately sized hook.
You can buy some plain fleece at these places:
http://www.fleecelady.com
http://www.twinfabrics.com
http://www.picotextiles.com
http://www.syfabrics.com
http://www.totallyfleeceinc.com
Tesselated Baby Blanket
I didn't write the original pattern for this blanket. However, when using the pattern, I inadvertently adapted it into my own pattern, lol. The original came from right here. I will re-post so that my changes are easier to follow.
The difference is that it consumes a little bit more yarn than the original, and it gives a cool texture to each row. The pictures don't show it very well.
(click to enlarge)
The difference is that it consumes a little bit more yarn than the original, and it gives a cool texture to each row. The pictures don't show it very well.
(click to enlarge)Row 1: Ch 126, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across.
Row 2: Ch 1 turn, (sc, ch 3, 3 dc) in 1st sc, *Skip 3 sc, (sc, ch 3, 3 dc) in next sc, Rep* across to last 4 sc, skip next 3 sc, sc in last sc. (31 shells complete across)
Row 3: Ch 3 turn, 3 dc in 1st sc, (sc, ch 3, 3 dc) in each ch-sp across
in the next stitch, ending with sc in last space.
Repeat row 3 approximately 55 rows.
Last Row: Ch 3 turn, 2 sc in ch-sp, *sc in sc, sc in next dc, skip next dc, sc in next dc, sc in next ch-sp. Repeat from * across to last shell, do not skip middle dc of last shell. (123 sc across)
Sun Sock
There are wind socks… why not sun? This is a little invention I made up for my car, because my sun visor is too short, and doesn’t block all the sun, which I hate when I’m driving. This takes care of it!
I am writing this pattern to fit what seems to me to be a typical size for a car. My cars, anyway. It has fit my last 2 cars (a '95 Ford Contour, and an '08 Mazda3), but you could possibly have to do some work for this pattern if your visors are different. It's easy to adjust.
Materials:
The size of hook and yarn won't really matter: I used worsted (Red Heart), with an H hook.
But here, size DOES matter. ;) Measure yours. Just make sure it fits as you go.
Pattern Instructions:
1) Make a starting chain 15" long.
For me this was a chain-45, but you should measure how big around your sun visor is, and make your starting chain that long. Your vehicle could vary, plus, I don't exactly crochet tightly.
Being careful not to twist the chain, sl-st back to first ch to join it into a circle.
I am writing this pattern to fit what seems to me to be a typical size for a car. My cars, anyway. It has fit my last 2 cars (a '95 Ford Contour, and an '08 Mazda3), but you could possibly have to do some work for this pattern if your visors are different. It's easy to adjust.
Materials:
The size of hook and yarn won't really matter: I used worsted (Red Heart), with an H hook.
But here, size DOES matter. ;) Measure yours. Just make sure it fits as you go.
Pattern Instructions:
1) Make a starting chain 15" long.
For me this was a chain-45, but you should measure how big around your sun visor is, and make your starting chain that long. Your vehicle could vary, plus, I don't exactly crochet tightly.
Being careful not to twist the chain, sl-st back to first ch to join it into a circle.
2) Next, determine how long we'll need to work the piece. 10" seems long enough to slip over my visor, and still cover the sun gap. You can measure how big the gap is that you need to fill. The "gap" is that sad empty part that you can see in my first picture up top!
Then, just start stitching in rounds.
Work your piece in the stitch pattern you prefer (sc, DC, or HDC), until it fits the length of the gap (or 10" if you're not sure).
So for step 3), chain 3 and DC in each stitch around, joining back to the first stitch with a slip stitch. I prefer to work in DC's - they seem to go faster - but you can use whatever stitch you like.
Then, 4) Repeat step 3 for about 12 rows.
We don't want to start increasing too soon, because then the sock would turn out cone-shaped, and not be very effective at solving the Gap problem we're trying to eliminate here.
And, we don't want to make it a complete rectangular-shaped sock, because it would be too heavy at one end when we're done.
5) So, we decrease slightly at first to give it some shaping:
Decrease 2 DC stitches (evenly around) per row for the next 2 rows.
6) Then, decrease 4 DC stitches (evenly around) per row until you get the piece worked as long as is needed. Again, I made mine 10" long and this worked great for me.
The end will slip over the end of your visor (the diagram below is incredibly rough, lol, but you get the idea).
7) Once it's long enough, just sl-st the ends together to enclose it.
8) Now, turn it inside-out. You're done! Try it out.
9) Elastic helps.
I decided to weave some elastic through the opening so the sock can hang on to the visor. This was definitely a good idea. I'll try to remember and grab a pic of that to post here later.
10) For some visors, it helps to affix something rigid inside along the top edge, for support.
A piece of cardboard would be perfect. Just insert it all the way inside. This helps to keep the sock standing up and out instead of sagging down, if you have to pull it out far.
Shoulder Wrap Pattern
Shoulder Wrap
This is not so much of a pattern as it is for a guide, because you can vary it. It's really just a simple stitch that you probably wouldn't need a pattern for, but this can serve as a good guideline for beginners too, I suppose.
I saw something in a book and it was the only item in there I liked, but I didn't like it enough to buy the whole book! I wish now I remembered what it was. Anyway, I came home and made one up myself. It was stitched in a yarn that had a metallic strand. I didn't have one so I again made that up myself.
~Original pattern called for 2 balls of yarn, each 82-yards
though I used 98-yard balls, myself. My yarn was Mongolia by Dynasty yarns.
~Hook, size I or so, if your yarn is a bit bulkier than worsted. Depends on your yarn - adjust accordingly (maybe an H with worsted and add more stitches, or a J for extra bulky and add fewer stitches per row)
~To add the metallic gleam, I bought a spool of metallic sewing machine thread, Coats. You can even find this at Wal-Mart. Mine was silver.
Hold both strands together while crocheting this project.
Chain 89. (Check to be sure this is big enough to go all the way around your shoulders to the desired circumference before continuing! Your yarn, hook, and desired project size will vary.)
Turn and SC in the 2nd SC from the hook, to the end of the row
Repeat until the wrap is as long as you'd like it to be, and you're done!
To hold the wrap together and to give it a nice touch, just pin it together at the top with a brooch or a pin.
Spiderweave Shrug & Cami
I, along with several other posters at Crochetville, was so disappointed when this awesome~super-cute item didn't make it to the Crochet Pattern-a-Day Calendar 2007 as the designer had said! I tried to write to her but never got through. I tried to write to one of the companies listed at one of her blogs but never got an answer. So, I wrote to the submissions person who's working on the next pattern-a-day calendar to see if there was any chance of it making it into the NEXT one.... that'd be 2009. This person wasn't on board at that time but said she will check into it! :D
You can see it here: http://www.crochetville.org/forum/showthread.php?t=13440
You can see it here: http://www.crochetville.org/forum/showthread.php?t=13440
Sushi Roll Scarf, With Pattern!
Download this pattern as a free .PDF file using the above button! :)
Sushi Roll Scarf
Rolled:
Unrolled:
I was inspired by a scarf posted by rubyflame over at Craftster.org and asked if she minded I do this and she said it was alright! :) So here it is, my scarf pattern inspired by her project which you can see right here.
Materials needed:
- Size I hook
- Worsted-weight yarns
I used: Dark pink, gold, dark green, white, black.
This color arrangement will give you: pink meat middle with a row of gold caviar around it, some green avocado inserted beside it, wrapped in white rice, then covered in black seaweed wrap.
You can change the colors in your sushi roll if you like, of course, and adjust the row counts and placement accordingly.
Stitches used:
CH = chain
DC = Double Crochet, used throughout the rest of the scarf.
CH = chain
DC = Double Crochet, used throughout the rest of the scarf.
Notes:
As you begin changing colors, especially before making color change after gold and beyond, roll the scarf up (with the dark pink first, rolling it to the middle). If possible (this becomes easier as the piece grows longer), leave it rolled while working so you can observe the alignment of colors. If needed, adjust the length of your rows, because some yarns and crocheters may yield a finished piece that works up more tightly/loosely. The notated number of rows/inches worked up for my scarf in assorted worsted weight yarns.
As you begin changing colors, especially before making color change after gold and beyond, roll the scarf up (with the dark pink first, rolling it to the middle). If possible (this becomes easier as the piece grows longer), leave it rolled while working so you can observe the alignment of colors. If needed, adjust the length of your rows, because some yarns and crocheters may yield a finished piece that works up more tightly/loosely. The notated number of rows/inches worked up for my scarf in assorted worsted weight yarns.
Instructions:
Start with dark pink yarn; CH 26.
DC in 4th ch from hook; DC to end of row. (24 DC)
Ch 2, turn. DC in 2nd DC; DC to end of row. (24 DC)
*ch-2 at beginning of row counts as first DC)
Work in dark pink for 16 rows, or 8 inches.
Change to gold. Work 11 rows, or 6 inches.
Change to dark green. Work 2 rows of DCs (this is the first row of avocado).
Change to white. Work about 13 rows, or 7 inches.
Change back to dark green. Work 2 rows (this is the second row of avocado).
Change back to white. Work about 64 rows, or 36 inches.
Change to black. Work enough rows to completely encircle your roll. Finish off.
Extra Notes:
Start with dark pink yarn; CH 26.
DC in 4th ch from hook; DC to end of row. (24 DC)
Ch 2, turn. DC in 2nd DC; DC to end of row. (24 DC)
*ch-2 at beginning of row counts as first DC)
Work in dark pink for 16 rows, or 8 inches.
Change to gold. Work 11 rows, or 6 inches.
Change to dark green. Work 2 rows of DCs (this is the first row of avocado).
Change to white. Work about 13 rows, or 7 inches.
Change back to dark green. Work 2 rows (this is the second row of avocado).
Change back to white. Work about 64 rows, or 36 inches.
Change to black. Work enough rows to completely encircle your roll. Finish off.
Extra Notes:
- When changing colors, CH 2 then DC in 1st DC, then DC to end. (24 DC)
- Stop and count your DC’s frequently to ensure you have 24 so your project will not begin to look like a “pyramid” if you're skipping a row... or to ensure it's not growing if you're making too many DC's per row.
- When finishing off one yarn, cut the yarn leaving a tail several inches long; pull yarn end through the last loop then pull taught to secure end. Turn your work. Now you can simply weave over it when you begin your next color.
- To join your new yarn, simply take the end of the new yarn and pull it through the first loop on the next row, leaving a tail of about 5” laying on top. Weave over that, too.
Twinkie Chan
Have you seen Twinkie Chan's delicious scarves yet? If not, you should stop by her website! http://www.twinkiechan.com
I found her Myspace profile link on there http://www.myspace.com/twinkiechan
and decided to write and ask her a question I've had for a while now: is she planning on selling any of her patterns!
Well, she said she had actually been working on a book a while back, but had to put the project aside for a while. So hopefully she'll work on that again soon! Wouldn't that be cool?
I found her Myspace profile link on there http://www.myspace.com/twinkiechan
and decided to write and ask her a question I've had for a while now: is she planning on selling any of her patterns!
Well, she said she had actually been working on a book a while back, but had to put the project aside for a while. So hopefully she'll work on that again soon! Wouldn't that be cool?
Completed Stuff
3/9/2010: This post was just made obsolete by the new Page. See this link instead:
http://scarfmaker.blogspot.com/p/my-completed-stuff.html
http://scarfmaker.blogspot.com/p/my-completed-stuff.html
Broomstick Lace
So... my mom came home with a box full o' goodies for me from some yard sale again recently. Amongst a bunch of old Crochet Magic mags and other minor treasures, there was a broomstick lace tool. :D I know I could just go buy one, but with all my WIPs in queue and etc., I would never just go buy one... though I knew I'd eventually have to get one, since of course it's crochet-related stuff I didn't have yet. LOL Now I can put this on my slate to figure out one day! :D I worked on the hairpin lace a little bit but not too much yet.
Here are some links I'll collect together here for broomstick lace, for easy future reference, and for your viewing pleasure, lol.
HOW TO:
http://www.crochetkim.com/broomstickclass.html
http://www.crochetcabana.com/specialty/broomstick_lace_jiffy_lace_.htm
http://members.aol.com/sbaycgoa/techbrom.htm
PATTERNS:
Sideways Lace Scarf
wrist warmers
hat
Pattern link directories:
http://www.crochetpatterncentral.com/directory/broomstick_lace.php
http://www.needlepointers.com/ShowArticles.aspx?NavID=246
--------------------
ABOUT:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Broomstick_lace
Broomstick lace (also known as 'peacock's eye' crochet) is a historic crochet technique from the 1800s that combines the use of a crochet hook and another long, slender item such as a knitting needle. Traditionally, a broomstick was used, but the modern variant is a lightweight plastic knitting needle or smooth wooden craft dowel. A larger knitting needle or dowel will result in a lacier effect, while a smaller will provide a more closely woven effect. It is recommended to try using different sizes of knitting needle from 17 through 50 with the desired yarn to determine the desired result. Because the fabric created is soft yet stable, it is well suited for clothing and blankets.
As with most crochet-type techniques, the base of the pattern is a crocheted chain. The number of stitches in this beginning chain should be counted in multiples of 3 through 6, depending on the desired effect. The first row can either be immediately done in Broomstick lace, or instead incorporate a single or half-double crochet stitches. The "broomstick" or knitting needle is then used in the next row, as you pick up a loop through each of the stitches in row one and transfer it from the crochet hook onto the needle or dowel. This part of the process is similar to knitting as all stitches in the row are being picked up and held at one time on the knitting needle being used. Once a loop has been pulled up through every stitch, the loops are then worked back off the dowel by sliding them off in groupings of 3, 4, 5, or 6 loops (depending on the desired effect) at a time and working the same amount of single or half-double crochet stitches through the top of each group of loops at the same time.
The overall appearance of the work will vary based upon the number of loops in a group, the size of the knitting needle being used, as well as the type of yarn being used. Experimenting with variations is encouraged so that the most desirable effect for the item being made will result. Typical items made using this technique include afghans, baby blankets, scarves, shawls, and other items where an unusual lacy effect may be desired.
Here are some links I'll collect together here for broomstick lace, for easy future reference, and for your viewing pleasure, lol.
HOW TO:
http://www.crochetkim.com/broomstickclass.html
http://www.crochetcabana.com/specialty/broomstick_lace_jiffy_lace_.htm
http://members.aol.com/sbaycgoa/techbrom.htm
PATTERNS:
Sideways Lace Scarf
wrist warmers
hat
Pattern link directories:
http://www.crochetpatterncentral.com/directory/broomstick_lace.php
http://www.needlepointers.com/ShowArticles.aspx?NavID=246
--------------------
ABOUT:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Broomstick_lace
Broomstick lace (also known as 'peacock's eye' crochet) is a historic crochet technique from the 1800s that combines the use of a crochet hook and another long, slender item such as a knitting needle. Traditionally, a broomstick was used, but the modern variant is a lightweight plastic knitting needle or smooth wooden craft dowel. A larger knitting needle or dowel will result in a lacier effect, while a smaller will provide a more closely woven effect. It is recommended to try using different sizes of knitting needle from 17 through 50 with the desired yarn to determine the desired result. Because the fabric created is soft yet stable, it is well suited for clothing and blankets.
As with most crochet-type techniques, the base of the pattern is a crocheted chain. The number of stitches in this beginning chain should be counted in multiples of 3 through 6, depending on the desired effect. The first row can either be immediately done in Broomstick lace, or instead incorporate a single or half-double crochet stitches. The "broomstick" or knitting needle is then used in the next row, as you pick up a loop through each of the stitches in row one and transfer it from the crochet hook onto the needle or dowel. This part of the process is similar to knitting as all stitches in the row are being picked up and held at one time on the knitting needle being used. Once a loop has been pulled up through every stitch, the loops are then worked back off the dowel by sliding them off in groupings of 3, 4, 5, or 6 loops (depending on the desired effect) at a time and working the same amount of single or half-double crochet stitches through the top of each group of loops at the same time.
The overall appearance of the work will vary based upon the number of loops in a group, the size of the knitting needle being used, as well as the type of yarn being used. Experimenting with variations is encouraged so that the most desirable effect for the item being made will result. Typical items made using this technique include afghans, baby blankets, scarves, shawls, and other items where an unusual lacy effect may be desired.
Birmingham Locals
If you are a crocheter who's in or near the Birmingham, AL area, or just want to talk to some who are, join this list :)
Click to join BhamLocals
Click to join BhamLocals
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