For all of you with Teenagers on your list this Christmas, I saw on a retail website a pair of fingerless gloves that were referred to as:
Texting Gloves
Makes it sound up to date and cool doesn't it?
Well my mother (god rest her soul) was right when she used to say "don't throw away those "stockings" with runs." I just finished a darling 15 inch bear in dark, dark brown chenille yarn and when I started to stuff him I thought-hmmmm what if he were lined first? So, I took a pair of old, very dark tights I had(clean of course), cut the legs off and then using the foot, slipped it into his head, stuffed inside the tight then just tucked in the ends before closing the head. Voila! no white stuffing showing through!!! For the body, arms and legs I used various pieces of the "legs" from the tights and it worked like a dream!
So, the thing I hate most is now solved WOO HOO!!! I figure I can pick up a pair or two as needed at the dollar store and my bears will never show stuffing again.
Maybe this is not a new idea but it is new to me and I just wanted to share.
Tampa Doll shares in reply that:
You can use all colors, for the different color bears or whatever you make. I have used green and yellow and such.
I love using the stockings so that the stuffing doesn't show.
(click to enlarge)
2) Next, determine how long we'll need to work the piece. 10" seems long enough to slip over my visor, and still cover the sun gap. You can measure how big the gap is that you need to fill. The "gap" is that sad empty part that you can see in my first picture up top!
Then, just start stitching in rounds.
Work your piece in the stitch pattern you prefer (sc, DC, or HDC), until it fits the length of the gap (or 10" if you're not sure).
So for step 3), chain 3 and DC in each stitch around, joining back to the first stitch with a slip stitch. I prefer to work in DC's - they seem to go faster - but you can use whatever stitch you like.
Then, 4) Repeat step 3 for about 12 rows.
We don't want to start increasing too soon, because then the sock would turn out cone-shaped, and not be very effective at solving the Gap problem we're trying to eliminate here.
And, we don't want to make it a complete rectangular-shaped sock, because it would be too heavy at one end when we're done.
5) So, we decrease slightly at first to give it some shaping:
Decrease 2 DC stitches (evenly around) per row for the next 2 rows.
6) Then, decrease 4 DC stitches (evenly around) per row until you get the piece worked as long as is needed. Again, I made mine 10" long and this worked great for me.
The end will slip over the end of your visor (the diagram below is incredibly rough, lol, but you get the idea).
7) Once it's long enough, just sl-st the ends together to enclose it.
8) Now, turn it inside-out. You're done! Try it out.
9) Elastic helps.
I decided to weave some elastic through the opening so the sock can hang on to the visor. This was definitely a good idea. I'll try to remember and grab a pic of that to post here later.
10) For some visors, it helps to affix something rigid inside along the top edge, for support.
A piece of cardboard would be perfect. Just insert it all the way inside. This helps to keep the sock standing up and out instead of sagging down, if you have to pull it out far.
Download this pattern as a free .PDF file using the above button! :)
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